Sunday, August 10, 2025

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       by Jim Barton, Sources: Associated Press, Parriva and Straight Arrow News


Chicano fashion designer Willy Chavarria’s latest collaboration with Adidas has sparked a wave of criticism over alleged cultural appropriation. The controversy centers on the “Oaxaca Slip-On,” a chunky sneaker featuring the braided leather weave of traditional Mexican huaraches, a style deeply rooted in Indigenous communities in Oaxaca.

Chavarria said he intended the design as a tribute to his heritage. The shoes debuted on August 3 at the Art Museum in Puerto Rico, but backlash quickly followed. Critics pointed to the use of the name “Oaxaca,” the lack of manufacturing in Mexico, with the sneakers made in China, and the absence of collaboration with the artisans who keep huarache-making traditions alive.

In a statement released Saturday, Chavarria apologized to the people of Oaxaca, acknowledging that the shoes were not developed in “direct and meaningful partnership” with the community and that the project “fell short of the respect and collaborative approach” it deserved. He expressed admiration for the “powerful cultural and artistic spirit” of Oaxaca but admitted that respect must be “earned through action.”

Some have accused Adidas of “gentrifying” the footwear. 

The dispute has drawn in government officials. Oaxaca’s governor, SalomΓ³n Jara Cruz, called the shoe design “cultural appropriation” and demanded its withdrawal and a public apology, saying, “Culture isn’t sold, it’s respected.” 

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum announced that Adidas is in talks with Oaxaca authorities to compensate affected artisans, and her administration is working on laws to protect traditional designs from being used without permission.

Local craftspeople stress that the issue goes beyond money. “The artistry is being lost. We’re losing our tradition,” said huarache maker Viridiana JarquΓ­n GarcΓ­a, who described the Adidas version as a “cheap copy” of the labor-intensive work done by Mexican artisans.

Adidas responded by affirming its respect for Mexico’s Indigenous cultural heritage and its willingness to work with officials to repair the damage.

This dispute is part of a broader push by Mexico to safeguard its cultural heritage. In recent years, the government has publicly challenged global brands such as Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl for using Indigenous patterns without credit or compensation. In Oaxaca, where handicrafts account for about 10% of the local economy and support hundreds of thousands of workers nationwide, officials hope future collaborations will ensure that Indigenous artistry is shared with the world without taking it from the people who created it.

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